Solakadam

Kamboçya ve Tayland!

Not: Bu yazı ayrıldığı bölümler itibariyle o zaman periyodunda yazılmıştır okurken anlayacağınız üzere. Biraz uzun bir yazı oldu, hepsini okumak kasar diyorsanız istediğiniz bölümü okumak gibi bir seçenek de olmuş oldu, güzel oldu. 🙂 Beğenmeniz dileğiyle, iyi okumalar.

Yola Çıkış ve Kamboçya 1. Gün( 23-24 Aralık 2009)

Herşeyden önce belirtmek lazım bu yolculuk hayatımın en yorucu ve zahmetli yolculuğu oldu. Eri adlı Japon arkadaşımla çıktığımız bu uzuuun yolculukta güzergah; Osaka’dan başlamak üzere Çin aktarmalı Vietnam, oradan da Kamboçya olacaktı. Vietnam sağolsun vize vermediği, ve daha önceden Vietnam’a inmek üzere satın alınmış biletim olduğundan  Vietnam’ı da aktarma yapmak üzere kullanmak durumundaydım. Kısaca özetlersek; öncelikle 23 Aralık günü saat 14.20 de Osaka’dan kalkan uçağımız yaklaşık 3 saat içinde Pekin’e vardı. Bilmediğim nokta Pekin’den Çin’in başka bir şehrine aktarma yapılıp oradan Vietnam’a geçilecek olmasıydı. Neyse efendim, 3 saat Pekin’de bekledik bu aktarma için.

Buraya ayrı bir paragraf açmak istiyorum, ilginç bir deneyimdi zira. Çin’e ayak basıp işlemlerimizi hallettikten sonra elimizde kalan 2 buçuk saati yemek yiyerek geçirmek istesek de kocaman havaalanında 1 tane döviz bürosu bulamadık! Sorduğumuz Çinlilerin hepsi de 5 karış suratla ya var dedi, dedikleri yerde hiçbişey yoktu, ya da burada döviz bürosu yok dediler. Yaklaşık 1 saatten fazla çaresizce döviz bürosu ararken( Çinlilerin yardımseverliğine(!) tekrar parmak basmak istiyorum) bir an Japon yardımseverliğini özledim ve yol arkadaşım Eri’ye ‘’Ya Japonya’yı özledim, şimdi bir Japon olsa kesin yardım ederdi ama nerden bulcaz hepsi birbirine benziyo.’’ derken yanımızdan o saniye (hakikaten abartmıyorum) ‘’chotto matte ne!’’(Japonca: biraz bekle) diyerek çocuğuna seslenen bir Japon annesi gördük ki, gülmekten yerlere yattık. Neyse kendisine döviz bürosu var mı yok mu diye sorduk ki, bilmediğini söyledi ama kendisinin turla geldiğini ve elinde Yuan(Çin parası) olduğunu, ihtiyacımız olduğu kadar bozabileceğini söyledi ki bu noktada Japonların kibarlık ve yardımseverliğine bir kez daha hayran kaldım. Gerçekten Çinlileri gördükten sonra Japonların kıymetini daha bir güzel anlıyorsunuz. Ve elimize geçen Yuan’la direk oturup yemek yedik tabi.  🙂 CIMG1225

Neyse Pekin’den 3 saat süren bir yolculuk sonrası Çin’in adını bilmediğim, bilmek de istemediğim, muhtemelen güneyinde kalan bir şehrine geçtik. Orada da 1 buçuk saatlik bir bekleyişten sonra Vietnam güzergahlı uçağımız kalkış yaptı ve 3 buçuk saat süren bir yolculuk sonrası Vietnam’a varıldı. Vietnam sağolsun muhteşem bir ülke olduğu için Türklere vize vermemesi bir yana dursun, gece 2 de havaalanında uluslar arası aktarmalar için çalışan masada kimsenin bulunmadığı bir ülke. Biz de zaten 7 saat beklememiz gerektiği için 5 saat kadar aktarma için işlemlerimizi yapmamız gereken, in cinin top oynadığı ofisin önünde uyuduk. Bu arada Vietnam’a hakikaten çok ama çok küfür etmek istiyorum, vize vermemesini geç, afedersiniz dangalak herifler Japonya’da vize işlemleri için pasaportumu aldıkları vakit, ilk sayfadaki isim ve fotoğrafın olduğu sayfadaki koruyucu naylonu açmışlar ve Çin’de adamlar kimliğimin sahte olduğunu düşünüp hakkımda en az 15- 20 dakika araştırma yaptılar. Böyle şeyler de hep beni bulur ya…neyse. Vietnam’ın tekrar annesinin gözlerinden öpüyorum. ( Halkıyla bir problemim yok, lafım hükümeti ve dışişlerinedir. Ülkelerini harabeye çeviren Amerikalılara dolar uğruna kucaklarını açarken bana vize vermemeleri bir yana dursun, pasaportumun içine edip bir sürü uğraştırdılar.) Neyse, velhasılkelam, işlemlerimizi tamamlayıp Kamboçya’ya doğru yola çıktık.(nihayet) 1 buçuk saatlik bir yolculuk sonrası artık Kamboçya’daydık! Toplamda 4 uçak kullanmak suretiyle aktarmalarla beraber 24 saat içinde Kamboçya’ya varmıştık!

Amma velakin uçaktan iner inmez kendini buram buram hissettiren yaz havası bana bütün yorgunluğumu unutturdu o anda. Benim gibi bir yaz aşığı için Aralık 24’te yaz mevsimini tecrübe etmek muhteşem bir şey tabi ki heheh. Oradan bizi karşılayan otel görevlisi refakatinde, motor araba (?!) CIMG1244şeklinde garip bir vasıtayla otelimize gittik. Kamboçya hakkında ilk söyleyebileceklerim gerçekten çok fakir bir ülke olduğu. Buna rağmen insanlar güleryüzlü ve yardımsever görünüyorlar. Tabi ki turistlerden para tırtıklama amacı da var bunun altında ama olur o kadar. Derken otele geldik dinlendik vs.. derken ilk ziyaret mekanımız Beng Melia ‘ya doğru yola çıktık. 2 saat o motor arabayla fakir Kamboçya köylerinin arasından geçerek, sağda solda cıbıl cıbıl büllüğünü sallaya sallaya gezen çocukları göre göre Beng Melia’ya ulaştık. Bu arada yolda kavrulmuş pirinç ve fasulye kombinasyonundan oluşmuş bambuya sarılmış bir de Kamboçya yiyeceği yedik ki, Japonlar alınmasın yediğim çoğu Japon yemeğinden güzeldi. Ayrıca çoook daha ucuz ve doyurucu 🙂 CIMG1264 Velhasıl, Beng Melia gerçekten ilginç bir yer, yıkık bir şehir, harabe kısaca. Fotoğraflarına bakmak lazım. 😛

Burada da turist rehberine paragraf açacağım. Bildiği sadece birkaç kelimeyle İngilizce ile(hakikaten cümle asla kuramıyor, bildiği kelimeler de cidden yok denecek kadar az) bize sadece önden yürümek suretiyle rehberlik yapan bu zat ( zaten talep etmediğimiz halde kendini rehber atadı, ses etmedik) , yanımızdan geçen diğer turistlerden biri  harabelerden bir bölgeyi eliyle gösterip library burası dedikten sonra her gördüğü yere library demeye başladı ki kendisine gülmekten günün bütün stresini attık. 1 dolar ücretini de helal ettim bu komik olaydan sonra .CIMG1303 Neyse efendim dönüşte akşam olmuştu ve bilin bakalım Kamboçya’da ışık var mı yollarda? Yok! Hakikaten adamlar evlerinde bile mum falan kullanıyorlar. 2 saat kadar zifiri karanlık yollarda üstümüze zıplayan böcekler eşliğinde motor arabamızla bir restorana çektik, 12 dolara sınırsız yemek yeyip(Kamboçya’da olabilecek en pahalı tarife, bir seferliğine kıydık paraya :P)CIMG1349 bir de geleneksel danslarını izledik Kamboçların nefis oldu. Sonra da otele döndük tabi. Kısaca özetlersem burası hakikaten çok, gerçekten çok fakir bir ülke; filmlerde 3. Dünya ülkesi olarak gösterilen Afrika ülkelerinden hiçbir farkı yok, ama çok da şirin bir ülke ve geldiğim için çok mutluyum şu anda. İşte başlangıç bu şekilde. Öptüm şimdilik. 🙂

Angkor Wat, Nehir Gezisi, Phnom Penh ve Ölüm Tarlaları (25-28 Aralık 2009)

İlk gün kültür şokunu atlatıp güzel havaya da alıştıktan sonra, tuk tuk sürücümüz (bu motor araba dediğim şey işte ilk yazıda) eşliğinde 25 Aralık sabahı Kamboçya’nın en ünlü mekanı olan Angkor Wat  harabelerine CIMG1285doğru yol aldık. CIMG1548Angkor Wat bir kendi başına tapınak ama etrafındaki bölgede sayısız harabe ve birbirinden görkemli tapınaklar ve eski şehir yerleşkeleri var. Bütün bölgeyiCIMG1528 gezmek CIMG1399tüm günümüzü aldı, gerçekten harika yerler. Daha sonra da belirteceğim tekrar tekrar ama gezi boyunca(şu ana kadar) en ilgimi çeken şey gerçekten Kamboçya halkının fukaralığı, garibanlığı oldu. Nereye giderseniz gidin ‘’1 dolar ver abi’’ diye yanınızda biten çocuklara rastlamamak imkansız. Neyse o günün akşam yemeğini otelde yemeye karar verdik (hem de oda fiyatına dahildi). Ve otelimizde kalan ben hariç herkes Japon olduğu için arkadaş bulmamak da imkansız oldu bir yerde. Osaka’lı Yuichi adlı bir zat Kyoto’lu Harada ve Tokyo’lu Miyuki adlı hanımlarla arkadaş olduk. Gecenin devamında da beraber takıldık otelde muhabbet falan derken zaman aktı geçti. 26 Aralık günü de Siem Reap’de alışverişle geçti saat 3 e kadar. Alışveriş yapmaktan nefret eden biri de olsam, annem babamdan gördüğüm pazarlık teknikleri işimi inanılmaz kolaylaştırdı. Yeni başlayanlar için Kamboçya: ASLA VE ASLA SATICININ SÖYLEDİĞİ FİYATTAN ALMAYIN! Zira en iyimser satıcı bile normal ederinin en az 3 -4 katını söyleyecektir. Velhasıl bende umduklarını bulamadılar, zira en pahalı aldığım şeyi söylediklerinin 4’te birine falan aldım. 8- 10 dolardan açtıkları fiyatlara karşılık ben direk 1 dolar teklif edince daha en baştan zor müşteri olduğumu anladılar ve o 10 dolarlık fiyat bir anda 3 dolar falan oluverdi ve 1.5 dolarla son noktayı koyduk 😀 Bu günün devamında da timsahlı mimsahlı macera CIMG1739filmlerinde kaçmış bir nehirde bot gezisine çıktık, gayet eğlenceliydi diyebilirim. Nehir kıyısında, ellerindeki avuçları tek şey olan sandallarıyla yaşayan Kamboçyalıları gözlemledik bol bolCIMG1712. Hakikaten çok gariban adamlar, görmeden anlayabileceğiniz türden bir şey değil. Elinde tuttuğu bir yılanla küçük bir tenekenin içinde kürek çekip 1 dolar diye bağıran 5 yaşında kız çocuğu mu ararsın her şey var. CIMG1718Bizim bir milyoncular gibi orda 1 dolarcı, her yerde ama. İnsanın içi çok acıyor, elimden geldiğince ufak tefek yardım da etmeye çalıştım ama yardım etmekle bitecek gibi değil maalesef. Neyse 27 Aralık günü Phnom Penh’e geçtik, Capon dostlarımızla Osaka’da CIMG1771tekrar görüşmek üzere vedalaşıp. Phnom Penh Kamboçya’nın başkenti. Daha CIMG1876gelişmiş bir şehir gibi dursa da(binalar vs..anlamında) Siem Reap’tan çok daha fena bir yer. Kamboçya’nın genelinde böyle bir durum sözkonusu olsa da, her CIMG1899köşebaşında 10 yaşında bir bir kız çocuğunun(ya da erkek) yanında bitmiş 50 -60 -70 yaşlarında bir batılı şerefsiz bir herif görmek mümkün. Zaten en yoğun karşılaşılan turistik amaçlardan birisi bu Kamboçya için. Gerçekten çok berbat bir durum. Midemiz bulana bulana geçtik böyle manzaraların arasından. Ayrıca Siem Reap’a göre çok daha pis bir şehir. Pol Pot ve Red Rouge zaten geri kalmış ülkeyi karanlık çağa sürmüş, bunu görmek çok mümkün. 28 Aralık günü de Komunist rejim zamanının meşhur hapishanesi, içine giren on binlerce mahkumdan sadece 7, (yazıyla yedi ) mahkumun kurtulduğu Tuol Sleng’i ve ölüm tarlalarını(killing fields) gezince durumun vehametini çok daha iyi anladık. 8 milyon Kamboçyalı’nın 2 milyonu 1975 -1978 yılları arasında bu rejim zamanında Pol Pot ve ekibi tarafından katledilmiş. Gerçekten çok fena, adam sırf kendisine itaat eden bir tarım toplumu yaratabilmek için öğretmen, doktor vs.. ne kadar okumuş eli kalem tutmuş adamCIMG1926 varsa kesmiş biçmiş. Hem de en ağır işkence teknikleriyle. Fotoğraflarda CIMG2126göreceksiniz. Velhasılkelam, Kamboçya’daki 5. Gün de sona erdi böylece. Yarın Sihonoukville adlı sahil şehrine geçiyoruz, diğer gün de Bangkok’a. Şu an 28 Aralık gecesi. Sıradaki yazıda görüşmek üzere. 🙂

Sihanoukville, Phnom Penh’e Dönüş, Bangkok’da Yılbaşı ve Diğer Gün (29-31 Aralık, 1 Ocak)

Sihanoukville’e gitmek üzere Phnom Penh’den 28’i 29’una bağlayan gece saat 2’de yola çıktık. Burada otobüslerde dikkat ettiğim nokta, tamam klima var(bindiğiniz firmaya göre tabi) vs.. ama klimanın ayarının bu kadar suyu da çıkmaz ki yahu, bilader fakir memleketsiniz, tasarruf edin azcık şu klimadan, ne zaman otobüse binsem kıçım dondu klima yüzünden 🙂 Neyse efendim, sabah 6 buçuk sularında Sihanoukville’e vardık. Otelimize tuktuk vasıtasıyla gittiğimizde ise bizi süper bir sorun bekliyordu, rezervasyon yaptırdığımız halde geleceğimizden haberleri yoktu ve otelde de yer. Neyse aslında o kadar da büyük bir sorun değil, Kamboçya’da elini attığın yerden guest house çıktığı için. Denediğimiz 3. Mekanda yer bulduk ve gayet makul bir fiyata check in yaptık ve öğlene kadar uyuduk o yorgunluğun üstüne. Sonra ver elini plaj tabi; belki hayatımda ilk ve son kez olmak üzere Aralığın 29 unda denize, hatta okyanusa girme fırsatını boşa çıkarmadım. Gerçekten harika plajları var Sihanoukville’in. Tek problem Kamboçya’nın her CIMG2225tarafında olduğu gibi, sürekli seyyar satıcı ve dilenciler tarafından etrafınızın sarılı olması. Sürekli değil de sık sık diyeyim. Onun dışında plaj boyunca serili kafe ve restoranlar, plaj dibinde olmasına rağmen çok makul fiyatlara sahipler. 3-5 dolar arasına gerçekten taptaze deniz ürünleri, tavuk, biftek vs… tıka basa yemek CIMG2278mümkün. Ben tabağımı zor bitirdim açıkçası. Bunların dışında Sihanoukville cidden çok güzel bir yer. Phnom Penh’de toplamda 2-3 gün geçirmektense burada 4 gün geçirmek çok daha iyi olurmuş. Neyse olan oldu ve 30 Aralık gündüz 14.30da Phnom Penh’e doğru yola çıktık Kamboçya’da son günümüzü tamamlamak üzere. 31 Aralık günü de saat 13 civarı havaalanına gittik. Havaalanında dikkatimi çeken şey, girişte ve check inde katiyen valizimize en ufak bir kontrol yapmadılar. Yani silah,uyuşturucu, Allah ne verdiyse geçirebilirsin öyle söyleyeyim. Tek dertleri ülkeden çıkarken de 25 dolar vergini bırakman. Velhasıl, Kamboçya macerası böylece sona erdi. Özetle söylemem gerekirse, Kamboçya fırsat olursa kesinlikle görülmesi gereken bir yer. Sadece tatil yapmak değil, adamların yaşam şartlarını da görüp ne kadar şanslı olduğumuzun farkına da varabilmek için. Yine de o kadar fakirliklerine rağmen hırsızlık vs.. gibi olayların çok yaşanmadığı bir ülke olduğunu düşünüyorum. Çok şükür bizim de başımıza en ufak bir vukuat gelmedi. Ancak yediği içtiği şeylerde ıncığı cıncığına kadar hijyen arayan kişiler için çok da uygun olmayabilir. Şehirde sokakların da pek temiz olduğunu söyleyemeyeceğim. Ha bir de ara sıra yollarda bizim midyeciler gibi hamamböceği, çekirge falan satan seyyar satıcılara rastlamanız da mümkün. Hem de hamamböcekleri CIMG1640naa böyle parmak gibi heheh.Ama sevdim Kamboçya’yı, gariban, kendi halinde bir ülke. Gelen turistlerden kazanabilecekleri 3-5 kuruşu kar görüyorlar işte, anlayışla karşılamak lazım. Ayrıca guest houseları da ucuz olmasına rağmen oldukça konforluydu. Bilhassa Bangkok’ta yaptığımız başlangıca nazaran…

Gelelim Bangkok’a… Uçaktan indiğimizde saat 17 olmamıştı daha. Phnom Penh – Bangkok arası 50 dakika civarı çekiyor. Bizim Antalya – İstanbul hesabı işte. Neyse efendim direk rezervasyon yaptırdığımız guest house’a gittik ki, Kamboçya’da kaldığımız 3 farklı guest house un en kötüsünden bile daha kötü bir yer çıktı. Rezervasyon yaptırdığımız web sitesindeki fotoğraflarla uzaktan yakından alakası olmaz mı yahu bir odanın? Yoktu ama maalesef. Bangkok’un ucuz hostellerinin yoğunlaştığı Khao San Road denen bölgede kalıyoruz. Yılbaşına da İstiklal Caddesi tadında(İstiklal Caddesi çok daha güzel ama) bu Khao San Road adlı yolun ortasında binlerce insanla beraber girdik. Enteresandı, aslında hiçbişey planlamadık sadece öyle yürürken bir anda saat 12 yi vurmuş, havai CIMG2372fişekler falan derken yeni yıl giriverdi. Bu vasıtayla da hepinizin yeni yılını kutluyorum. Velhasıl, Bangkok da hijyen konusunda Kamboçya’dan çok farklı değil. Kamboçya’nın herhangi bir şehrinden çok daha gelişmiş bir yer olduğunu söylemek mümkün ama sokakta yattığını gördüğüm insan sayısı Kamboçya’dakinden daha fazla açıkçası. Bir de krallarına aşırı bir sevgileri var, kral çok önemli burada, her köşe başında adamın resmini görüyorsunuz. Koca biblolarda, anıtlarda vs… Dahası kral hakkında en ufak ters sözün, hareketin cezası çok ağır oluyormuş duyduğuma göre. Yılbaşından sonraki gün çok bir şey yapmadık, Chiang Mai (Tayland’ın kuzeyi) gitmek üzere programımızı hazırladık, tren biletlerimizi ve otel rezervasyonumuzu cebimize koyduk. 2 Ocak gecesi(yarın) 12 saatlik tren yolculuğumuza çıkacağız kısmetse. Şimdilik bu kadar. Bangkok ve Chiang Mai ile ilgili detaylar sonra girilecektir.

Chiang Mai, Bangkok’a Dönüş (2 Ocak – 9 Ocak) :

2 Ocak günü bavullarımızı pılımızı pırtımızı otelde bırakıp, 5 gün için gerekli şeyleri yanımıza aldığımız küçük bir bavula sığdırıp otelden ayrıldık. Günlüğü 10 baht(yaklaşık 50 kuruş ediyo) karşılığında otelin deposunu kullanabiliyorsunuz, güzel bir imkan, en azından güvenli.  Sonra da rezervasyonumuzu yaptırdığımız acentaya gittik ve o bavulu da oraya bırakıp Bangkok’da biraz sağı solu gezmeye koyulduk akşam 22.00’deki trene kadar. Kısaca Bangkok gözlemlerine gelirsek; Bangkok gerçekten harika tapınaklarla bezeli, büyük de bir nehrin geçtiği hoş bir şehir. Sokakların çok temiz olmadığını söylemiştim. Zengin ile fakir arasındaki uçurum daCIMG2369 bariz. Ama bir bakıma Türkiye’yi hatırlatan çok şey var bu açıdan bakınca. Normal Thai insanı kibar, güleryüzlü. Lakin aynı bizim Türkiye hesabı parasını turistlerden kazanmaya çalışan kişilerden mümkün mertebe uzak durmak, ya da duruma karşı hazırlıklı olup ortalama fiyatları bilmek lazım pazarlık yapabilmek için. Zira kazıklanma potansiyeliniz çoook ama çok yüksek. Kamboçya’dan bile daha fazla diyebilirim hatta. Çok ilginç bir şey, taksiciler genellikle taksimetre açmıyorlar turistlere. Kısacası turistin tanımı ‘’Kazıklanmaya müsait, çeşitli en ve boylardaki insan.’’ 🙂 Bunların yanında muhtemelen bildiğini z üzere Tayland aynı zamanda masajıyla ünlü bir ülke ve yolda yürürken sürekli ‘’massage, you want massage??’’ sorularına maruz kalıyorsunuz ‘’yürüyen para’’ olarak. Velhasıl efendim gündüz vaktini Bangkok’ta geçirdikten sonra tren saatimiz geldi ve 15 saat sürecek yolculuğumuz için yataklı vagonumuzda yerimizi aldık. Türkiye de dahil olmak üzere hayatında hiç yataklı vagonda seyahat etmeyen biri olarak oldukça ilginç bir tecrübeydi açıkcası. Alt ve üst ranzanın fiyatının farklı olduğuna şaşırmıştım ilkin, ama vagona girince sebebi ortaya çıktı. Alt ranza çok daha geniş ve konforlu, ayrıca penceresi var CIMG2450vs vs… Üst vagonda afedersiniz kıç gibi daracık bir yatakta, penceresiz, uyumaktan başka çareniz kalmıyor ki ben de tam olarak böyle yaptım ve 23 sularında daldığım uykumda 3 Ocak saat 13 civarlarında Chiang Mai’de uyandım(oha). J Evvelden rezervasyon yaptırdığımız otele gittik direk tuk tuk vasıtasıyla. Bu noktada çok şanslıyız, zira bu sefer otel gerçekten çok iyi çıktı. Oda oldukça temiz ve geniş, yüzme havuzu bile olan bir otel. Aslında guest house ama kesinlikle otel kalitesinde. Bu sefer fotoğraflarda gördüğümüzden farklı değildi Allahtan. Velhasıl biraz otelde dinlenip, havuzda yüzüp güneşlendikten sonra ertesi günkü 2 günlüğüne yağmur ormanında çıkacağımız trekking turu için yapılacak oryantasyona katıldık. Sonrasında da yemek yiyip Chiang Mai şehrini gezmeye koyulduk. Chiang Mai Bangkok’a nazaran oldukça küçük, ama daha sevimli, daha temiz ve turistik olmasına rağmen Bangkok’tan daha çok Tayland gibi olan bir yer. Gece Night Bazaar dedikleri mekana gittik. Epey hoş, sokakta iki yakasına tezgahını açmış bir sürü, çeşit çeşit şey satan Tayland’lı. Fiyatlar tabi ki pazarlığa tabii. Vee evet, burada da turistlere 2 katından fazla fiyat çekiyorlar. Tekrar söylemekte fayda görüyorum ki, Tayland da, Kamboçya da, Japonya’dan en az 3 misli ucuz ülkeler, her anlamda. Ama pazarlıkla aranız yoksa, çoook kazık yersiniz. Pazarlık konusunda iyi olduğumu düşünmeme rağmen yine de normalden fazla para ödediğimi bildiğim zamanlar oldu, mecburiyetten tabi. Küçük bir örnek, mesela bu Chiang Mai’ye geldiğimiz paket tur(3 gece otel, 2 gün 1 gece trekking, trekking süresince her öğün yemek dahil, trekking ayrıca 1 saatlik bamboo üstünde rafting ve 1 saat fil sırtında geziyi de içeriyor, ve son gün de tiger kingdom adlı kaplanlarla haşır neşir olabileceğiniz parka ücretsiz götürüp, giriş ücretinin şirket tarafından ödenmesi) için ilk çektikleri fiyat kişi başı 5700 baht(yaklaşık 170-180 dolar) idi. Lakin ben teşekkür edip çıkınca adam arkamdan geldi ve 5500 e düşebileceğini söylediğinde ben net ve kararlı olarak ‘’Öğrenciyiz baba biz, para yok, bu anlattıklarının hepsini içermek koşuluyla en fazla 3000 Baht çalışır dedim.’’ Adam epey bir mırın kırın edip 5000, 4500 lere çekmeye çalıştıysa da sonunda razı oldu. 3000 baht adamın söylediğine göre ucuz bir fiyat ama aslında hala o kadar ucuz değil, sadece normal. Fiyatları internetten araştırdığım için biliyorum. Ama önbilginiz olmasa bütün turizm şirketlerinin çektiği fiyatlar yaklaşık olduğu için dedikleri fiyatı kabul etmeniz çok olası, çünkü 170 -180 dolar bahsi geçen aktiviteler için gözünüze makul görünüyor, ama asla o kadar pahalı değiller. Bu bilgileri ola ki bir gün Tayland’a a, bu civarlara yolunuz düşerse diye veriyorum. Velhasıl bu kadar ekonomik detaydan sonra gelelim jungleda trekkinge. 4 Ocak sabahı 9 sularında otelden ayrılıp öteberi almak için markette durduk. Yaklaşık 1 buçuk -2 saat süren yol sonucunda jeep’in giremeyeceği noktada yürümeye koyulduk. Yola koyulduğumuz ekip çeşitli milletlerden 15 kişilik bir kafile(Fransız, Avusturyalı, Hollandalı, İskoç, Litvanyalı, Japon ve Türk J) ve 3 kişilik Tayland’lı liderler olmak üzere toplam 18 kişi idi. Tabi bu kadar kişiyle yürümek ve tırmanmak epey zor olduğu için gruplar arasında epey kopukluklar yaşandı. Velhasıl zaman zaman durarak yaptığımız toplamda 6 CIMG2481saatlik yürüyüş sonucu saat 5 sularında gece konaklayacağımız bir dağ köyüne geldik. Yürüyüş gerçekten güzeldi, harika bir doğa, devasa örümceklerle selamlaşıp geçtiğiniz yollar vs vs… CIMG2520Vardığımız köyde toplamda 50 kişi civarı bir nüfus var. İlkelliğin zirvesinde, medeniyetten tamamen uzak, elektriğin bile olmadığı bir yer diyeyim siz anlayın. Ama gerçekten güzel bir tecrübeydi. Akşam taze kesilmiş tavuktan yapılmış Thai yemeğimizi yedik ve yakılan ateş etrafında kurulduk. Evet itiraf ediyorum o en büyük klişeyi gerçekleştirdik, elektrik olmasa da gitar vardı ve ateş etrafında gitar eşliğinde tüm grup kaynaştı, dünya çapında da bir sürü yeni hayranım oldu 😀 (evet gitarı ben çaldım, gülmeyin) Ama grup gerçekten iyi kaynaştı, sonrasında Chiang Mai’ye dönünce de beraber takıldık zaten, sonradan bahsedeceğim üzere. Velhasıl 5 Ocak sabahı kalkıp jungle turumuza devam ettik. 3 saatlik bir iniş ve tırmanışlarla bezeli bir yürüyüşten sonra bir Thai köyünde öğlen yemeğimizi yedik ve bamboo rafting yapmak üzere nehre geldik. Bamboo rafting denen şey normal rafting e göre nispeten dingin bir suda yapılan(bamboodan yapılmış sal çok tekin olmadığı için), güzel bir aktivite. IMG_0860CIMG2548Bamboo rafting sonrasında fil kampına geldik ve 1 saatlik fil kıçındaki yolculuğumuz başladı. Bu kısım ekstra eğlenceliydi. Fil hakikaten çok uysal ve sevimli bir hayvan. Giderken sürekli bahşiş istiyo şerefsiz, ver muzu ver muzu doymak bilmez bir de. Velhasıl, fil kısmı da bittikten sonra otele döndük ve ayaklarımın hissetmediğini bu noktada hissettim. J 2 gün ne kadar eğlenceli de olsa hayli yorucuydu. Günün kalan kısmı da pineklemek ve uyumakla geçti. 6 Ocak sabahı en 4 gözle beklediğim kısım olan Tiger Camp adlı her boydan kaplanla ve yavru aslanlarla haşır neşir olunaiblen mekana doğru yola koyulduk. Otelden arabayla CIMG266230 dakika kadar süren bir mesafede konuşlanmış bir mekan. Ayrıca bu mevkide yılan kampı, maymun okulu, karen kabilesi CIMG2618köyü(uzun boyunlu, boyunlarında birsürü bilezik takılı olan Thai yerlileri, belki fotoğraflarda görmüşlüğünüz vardır), bungee jumping vs… bir sürü atraksiyon var. Neyse efendim, Tiger Camp’e girişimizi yaptık. Dokunmak istediğiniz her boyut için ayrı ayrı fiyat var ve biz de büyük kaplanlar ve yavru aslan içeren paketi seçtik. İlk olarak aslancıkların yanında aldık soluğu. Buranın güzel yanı, hayvanları ilaçla falan uyutmuyorlar, sadece küçüklüklerinden beri bir şekilde eğitilmişler. Ama hala nasıl yaklaşacağınızı ve hangi bölgelere dokunmanız gerektiğini iyi bilmeniz lazım. Misal kafasına dokunmamanız ve ön taraftan yaklaşmamanız lazım zira düşman olarak algılanma ihtimaliniz var bu durumda. Neticede ne kadar eğitilseler de bir yere kadar, vahşi hayvan ne de olsa. Neyse, aslancıklardan sonra devasa kaplanlarımızın olduğu kafese girdik. Kaplanlarla da öpüşüp koklaşıp fotoğraflarımızı çekildik. Ara ara kaplanın yüzüme ‘’Yenir lan bu’’ gibisinden baktığını hissetsem de dosttuk biz, olmazdı öyle bir şey. O yüzden tırsmadım kesinlikle, evet. Gerçekten çok güzel bir duyguydu, hayatta ilk ve son kez yapabileceğim bir şey belki de. CIMG2707Sonrasında Karen kabilesinin köyüne gidip uzun boyunlu Thai’lerle de tanıştık. Onlar dahi turistlerden payelerini kapmaya çalışıyorlar yaptıkları el işi incik boncuk vs… envai çeşit eşyayı satarak. Karen kabilesinde sonraki durağımız maymun okulu oldu. Burada da çeşitli seviyelerde eğitilmiş maymunların gösterisini izledik. Bu kısım da çok eğlenceliydi. Maymunların ezberleme yeteneği olduğunu burada öğrendim. Zira gösterinin bir bölümünde başlangıçta sırayla dizili 10 tane numara ters çevrilip karıştırıldı ve maymuna misal 3 numara hangisiydi diye sorduklarında adam gidip 3 numarayı bulup getirdi. Bizim bul karayı al parayı hesabı. Hiçbir hile yok, zira ben kendi ellerimle karıştırdım 10 tane numarayı. 🙂 Buradaki ziyaret de bitince yılan kampına gittik CIMG2784ve orada da yılan gösterisini seyredip 3 metrelik pitonu boynuma dolamayı kabul ettim. Evvelden sorsalar asla yapamayacağımı söylerdim ama yaptım her ne kadar biraz tırssam da. Göstericinin devasa ve en zehirli yılan türü olan kral kobrayla öpüştüğünü gördükten sonra gaza geliyorsunuz ehehe. Bu güzel ve radikal aktivitelerden sonra yemek yeyip otele döndük ve trekking turundan tanıştığımız arkadaşlarla otelde zaman geçirdik ve gece de Tayland’ın ünlü spor(?)’u Muay Thai (Tayland boksu) seyretmeye gitmeye karar verdik ve soluğu boks salonunda aldık. Farklı ağırlıklarda 7 karşılaşmanın yapıldığı bu gecede de Tayland boksu neymiş öğrenmiş oldum. Açıkçası beklediğimden daha yumuşaktı, daha çok temkinli ve dikkatli olmayı gerektiriyor anladığım kadarıyla. 7 karşılaşmadan CIMG2903sadece 1 tanesi nakavtla sonuçlandı zira. Öyle bam güm saldırmıyorlar yani. Bi de ufak tefek adamlar yav. Ben bile döverim o derece. belki yani, kimbilir… 😛 Sonrasında otele döndük Chiang Mai’deki son geceyi geçirmek için. Ertesi gün pek bir şey yapmadık, tanıştığımız arkadaşların da hemen hepsi otelden ayrılıyorlardı, bir gün bir yerlerde görüşmeyi umarak ve mailleri alarak vedalaştık, saat 3 buçuk gibi istasyona geldik 4 buçukta Bangkok’a gidecek trenimiz için. Bu sefer alt CIMG2958ranzalardan aldık tabi, tecrübe konuşuyor. 7 Ocak gecesi yaptığımız gayet rahat bir yolculuktan sonra da 8 Ocak’ta Bangkok’a vardık. Bu yataklı tren işi cidden hoşuma gitti, yerini her ne kadar ferah olmasa da bildiğin yatakta yatarak yolculuk yapma imkanı sunuyor. Hem ulaşmak istediğiniz yere uyurken varıyorsunuz hem de o gece için otel parasından sıyrılıyorsunuz. Bir taşla iki kuş hesabı. Velhasıl Bangkok’a geldik ve ilk geldiğimizde konakladığımız bölgeye geri dönüş yaptık valizlerimizi almak ve kalacak yeni ve daha iyi bir yer bulmak için.(Bangkok’a ilk geldiğimizde kaldığımız yerin ne kadar rezil olduğunu söylemiştim.) Aynı fiyata çok daha iyi bir otel bulduk ve sağı solu gezerek ve biraz da alışveriş yaparak günü geçirdik, zira ertesi gün 9 Ocak gecesi Eri Japonya’ya dönüyor, eşine dostuna, ailesine hediye almak istedi. Alışveriş sonrasında da kaldığımız otelin yakınlarında açık gece pazarını (böyle neredeyse 2 kilometrelik bir çember etrafında sağlı sollu ne ararsan var, bir nevi bit pazarı da denebilir) gezdik. Önümüze gelen açıkta satılan çeşitli Tayland CIMG3055yemekleriyle de karnımızı doyurduk. Açıktan satılan yiyecekler Kamboçya’da da Tayland’da da çok meşhur. Böyle ortalık yerde adamlar ızgarasını da satıyo, noodle’ını da, börtü böceğini de.CIMG3022 Ben diyeyim size, ne kadar yırtınsalar da Kamboçya’da, Tayland’da Avrupa Birliği’ne giremez, mümkün değil yahu. Bu günün akşamında bir Tayland masajı yaptıralım dedik ve denedik. Güzel bir şey, yarım saatte epey rahatlıyorsunuz, ama çok masaj tecrübem olmadığı için normal bir masajdan nasıl bir farkı var ayırt edemem, ama gayet güzel bir şeydi. 8 Ocağı da bu şekilde bitirdikten sonra 9 Ocağa geldik, Japon yol arkadaşım Eri bu gece geri dönüyor ve kalan 12 günde Tayland’ın güneyindeki adalara gidip sahilde kıçımı serip yatıp dinlenmeyi planlıyorum biraz. Daha plan yapmadım, bakacağız. Bugün 9 Ocak, şimdilik bu kadar.

Bangkok, Koh Chang (10 Ocak-22 Ocak) :

9 Ocak gecesi Eri’yi Japonya’ya yolcu ettikten sonra gezinin tek başıma yapacağım kısmı başladı. Aslında pek de tek başıma geçmedi trekkingde tanıştığım arkadaşlar sağolsun. Neyse efendim 10 Ocak günü anca öğle vakti kalkıp kendime gelmeyi başardıktan sonra biraz daha Bangkok’u gezmek istedim. Büyük tapınaklardan başlamak üzere, rastgele kafama göre sağa sola girip gezmek işte. En güzeli bu rastgele gezme olayı zaten; kayboluyorsunuz, sonra bir bakmışsınız acayip bir yere çıkmışsınız, ordan başka bir yere vs… derken bulunduğunuz şehri daha iyi tanımış oluyorsunuz. Tabi ki elinizde bir de harita olması kaydıyla, en azından rastgele girip çıktığınız yerin haritada nereye tekabül ettiğini bilmek önemli. Haritanın bir başka önemi de, bilhassa Bangkok için, taksicinin taksimetre açtırmayı başarabilmeniz takdirinde sizi uzun yollardan dolaştırıp kazıklama ihtimalini düşürür. Evet taksimetre açtırabilmek! Hayatımda ilk kez Bangkok’ta tecrübe ettiğim bir durum oldu bu. Daha önce de lafını etmiştim sanırım, kısaca adam açık açık diyor ki ‘’ Bilader ben sana geçirecem kazığı, işine gelirse, olmaz diyorsan da sıradaki keriz nasıl olsa kabul edecek.’’ Hayır yani alternatifleri de var her zaman, o kadar çok turist var ki, mutlaka birisi düşecek. Tuk tuk (At arabasının motorsikletli versiyonu) için de aynı şey geçerli. Adım adım gidelim, diyelim ki bir yere gideceksiniz ve tuk tukla gitmek istiyorsunuz. Aynen şöyle gelişiyor olay; tuk tuk sürücüsüne yaklaşıyorsunuz büyük bir güleryüzle karşılıyor, siz gideceğiniz yeri söylüyorsunuz, direk ‘’Ok, ok!’’ diyip buyur ediyor ama hiç fiyattan bahsetmeden. Sıradaki aşamada fiyatı soruyorsunuz, 3 saniye düşünme sonrasında (o 3 saniye tipinizi tartıp ‘’lan ne kadar geçirebilirim ki bu elemana’’ 3 saniyesi) 200 baht diyor mesela. Katiyyen o fiyatı yarıya çekene kadar da geçen 1 dakika sonrasında normal fiyatından tuk tuka binebiliyorsunuz. Böyle yürüyor işler. Bu fiyat, pazarlık cart curt mevzularından çok bahsettim biliyorum ama kesinlikle bilhassa Bangkok olmak üzere Tayland’ın da, Kamboçya’nın da önemli parçası. Neyse, Bangkok’u geziyorduk en son. Bizim İstanbul Boğazı hesabı kocaman bir nehir bu Bangkok’ta. Bu nehir boyunca zaten ziyaret etmek istediğiniz tapınak vs…’nin en görkemlileri bulunuyor, o yüzden çok kullanışlı.Hiç bekleme yapmadan vızz diye gelip geçen vapurlarla her iki CIMG3090yakada kurulu toplam 17,18 durağa istediğiniz şekilde geçebiliyorsunuz. Ve bu vapurlar Bangkok belediyesinin hizmeti olduğu için fiyatlar fiks, kazıklanma ihtimali yok heheh. 10 ve 11 Ocak günleri yaptığım Bangkok gezisinden notlar sunayım. Bangkok’taki tapınaklar hakikaten çok ama çok görkemli. Hani öyle ki adamlar yememiş içmemiş parayı tapınağa gömmüşler dersiniz, o derece. Altın renkli, acayip işlemeli, çok büyük ve nasıl anlatayım baya görkemli yerler işte, adamlar yapmış. Hele Wat Phnom dedikleri bir tapınak vardı ki adamlar koskoca bir odanın CIMG3182içine kıçını serip uzanmış 30 – 40 metrelik Buddha heykeli koymuşlar. Hani Japonya’da da bir sürü tapınak var ama Japonlar Tayland’lılara nazaran dini pek iplemiyorlar gibi geliyor bana. Ki bir çok Japon arkadaşımın –aynen kendi ifadeleridir- kağıt üstünde Budist yazsa da mantalite olarak ateist olduklarını söylemişliği var. Ama Tayland’lılar baya baya Budist. Arada Müslüman olanlara da rastlıyorsunuz ama oldukça azınlık. Wat Arun adlı beyaz başka bir tapınak ve Grand Palace(büyük saray) ‘ı da gördükten sonra Çin Mahallesi dedikleri bir yer varmış oraya gideyim dedim. Bu arada Grand Palace demişken orası da hakikaten görkemin suyunun çıktığı bir yer. CIMG3238Yapmış adamlar, neyse. Bu Çin Mahallesi dedikleri bölge hakikaten böyle kocaman sokak boyunca her yer Çince yazılı dükkanlar oteller motellerle bezeli, acayip bir yer. Ne diye yapmışlar böyle bir yer çözemedim ama çok da şaşırtmadı zira bir gün önce sadece Japon gece hayatı! ‘na hitap eden bir sokak görmüştüm. Japon tarzı gece klüpleri, kapıda sizi Japonca buyur eden Tayland’lı kadınlar vs… Orası daha acayip bir yer olduğu için bu Çin mahallesini daha normal karşıladım. Öyle acayip bir yerdi ki, yolumu şaşırıp girdim, sonra metro’ya nasıl gireceğimi sormak için kapıdaki bir Tayland’lı hatunla CIMG3225Japonca iletişim kurdum, zira Japonca’sı İngilizcesi’nden daha iyiydi. Hayat işte…

Velhasıl bu gün de bu şekilde bitti ve ertesi gün Tayland’ın güneyindeki Koh Chang adasına gitmeye karar verip bavulumu hazırlamaya koyuldum. Phuket, Koh Samui gibi daha popüler adalar olmasına rağmen Koh Chang’ı seçtim zira Tayland’ın en turistik mevsimi olan Ocak ayında oraların çok kalabalık olması muhtemeldi. Bu yüzden daha sessiz ve kenarda köşede kalmış, CIMG3340sakin ve şirin bir ada olan Koh Chang’a gitmenin daha iyi bir fikir olduğunu düşündüm. Ertesi sabah, Chiang Mai’de tanıştığım Kanadalı Leah ve Hollandalı  Pieter ile buluşup (internetten iletişim kurup beraber gitmeye karar verdik zira) Koh Chang’a doğru yola koyulduk. 6 saat süren otobüs yolculuğundan sonra feribotumuza binip adeta cennetten bir parça olan Koh Chang’a ulaştık. Koh Chang kısmını çok uzun tutmayacağım, zira son 10 günümde sadece yatıp, denize girip, tembellik yapmayı planladım ve aynen bu şekilde geçirdim son günlerimi. J Koh Chang ile ilgili CIMG3622diyebileceğim, Tayland’ın Phuket’ten sonra en büyük 2. adası. Kamboçya’ya yakın bir konumda. Koh, Tayland dilinde ada, Chang da fil anlamına geliyor, yani kısacası fil adası demek Koh Chang. Adanın ismine uygun olarak salınık durumda gezen fillere dahi rastlamak mümkün. Aynı şekilde maymunlara da. Bizim sokak köpeklerinin kedilerinin gezdiği gibi kafasına göre gezen, elektrik direklerinde tüneyen maymunlarla karşılaşmak pek hoş bir sürpriz oldu açıkcası. Bunun dışında Tayland’ın pek çok şehrinde kolaylıkla yapılabildiği üzere motorsiklet kiralayıp(inanılmaz ucuza, günlüğü 5 dolar ) adanın her karışını gezmek apayrı bir eğlenceydi. Ama en hoşuma giden kısım, çocukluğumdan beri filmlerde görüp hayalini kurduğum kenarda köşede kalmış, CIMG3537hindistan cevizi ağaçlarıyla bezeli, turkuaz mavisi okyanus ve sahil atmosferini sonuna kadar yaşamak oldu. 10 gün neredeyse birbirinin kopyası olarak sahilde tünemek, motorsikletle adayı turlamak, denize girip yanmak ve her gün tanışılan yeni Avrupalı, Kanadalı vs… arkadaşlarla eğlenceli sohbetler yapmak şeklinde geçti. Bir de çok ilginç olarak bu adada birkaç Türkle tanıştım! Ne Kamboçya’da ne de Tayland’ın diğer şehirlerinde denk gelemeyip 1 avuç nüfusu olan bir adada Türk’e rastlamak ilginç bir rastlantı oldu. İlginç bir ayrıntı daha, son derece huzur ve barışın hakim olduğu bu adada (gece gündüz istediğiniz gibi takılın gezin hiçbişey gelmez başınıza) en büyük tehlike kafanıza Hindistan cevizi düşmesi. Bu sebeple ölen CIMG3391insanların olduğunu duydugumda pek inandırıcı gelmese de rüzgarlı bir günde çat çut düşüp çatıyı yaran hindistancevizlerine de tanık oldum. Kısacası aslı olduğunu düşünüyorum bu haberin. Yalnız düşünsenize dünyanın en trajikomik ölümlerinden biri olurdu heralde Allah korusun. ‘’Tatil için geldiği Tayland’ın Koh Chang adasında kafasına Hindistan cevizi düşen turist hastaneye yetişemeden can verdi.’’ Öehh, neyse. J CIMG3681Velhasıl bu adada da 10 günümü doldurduktan sonra artık Japonya’ya dönme zamanı gelmişti…Gerçekten aslında sevdiğim Japonya’ya dönerken ayaklarımın bu kadar geri geri gideceğini tahmin etmezdim. Özetle söylemek gerekirse hayatımın en güzel, eğlenceli ve dolu dolu tatili geride kalıyordu ve 35 derece hava koşullarından 0-5 arasında seyreden Osaka’ya geri dönüyordum. Tabi bu şekilde düşününce bu ayağın geri geri gidişi daha bir anlam kazanıyor heheh. Neyse efendim, bir çıkarım ve tavsiyeyle bu uzun gezi günlüğüne nokta koyayım. İlk olarak tespiti söyleyeyim: Aga bu ecnebiler hayatı nasıl yaşayacağını çok iyi biliyolar. Kaç tane adama rastladım bi sırt çantasıyla gezmedik ülke bırakmıyor. Böyle gezen bi Türk bulmak çok zor. Tamam maddi durum da farklı vs… ama hani yurtdışına çıkan bi sürü insanımız da var ama varsa yoksa Avrupa, Amerika falan. Tayland vize istemiyor Türklerden, nefis bir avantaj, uçaktan indikten 5 dakika sonra işlemlerim tamamlandı elimi kolumu sallaya sallaya girdim ülkeye. Kamboçya vize istiyor ama havaalanında 5 dakkada çıkartıyolar onu da 20 doları bastın mıydı. Ve hakikaten çok ucuz ülkeler. Uçak bileti belki yurtdışında seyahat edebileceğiniz diğer ülkelere nazaran pahalıya gelebilir ama içerde öyle aman aman para harcamazsınız. Kısaca tavsiyem, ben biraz uzaklaşayım, tatile çıkayım diyorsanız ve hedef yurtdışıysa alın koca bir backpack, koyulun yola. Avrupa’ya, Amerika’ya yapacağınızla aynı fiyata, hatta daha ucuza tatilin kralını yapın. Diyeceğim budur. Hep Avrupalısı, Amerikalısı ecnebisi geziyor, görüyor, tadını çıkarıyor dünyanın. Türkler olarak tecrübemiz yok zira, alışmamışız, işin yolunu yordamını bilmiyoruz. Ama bu tatilde edindiğim tecrübelerle size bu tavsiyeyi çok net verebilirim. Naçizane.CIMG3512

Gezi kısmı buraya kadar, sonuç olarak buz gibi Japonya’ya döndüm ve gün itibariyle okul da başladı. Yeni dönem öncekinden zor olsa da, geçme kalma gibi bir stresim olmayacağından daha rahat olacağını umuyorum.

Sıradaki yazıda görüşmek üzere, sevgiler!


Kamboçya ve Tayland! İÇİN YAPILAN YORUMLAR

12 yorum for “Kamboçya ve Tayland!”

  1. Off Mete ya, bilemiyorum kıskançlıktan çatırdama seslerim oralardan duyuluyor mu:(

    Gönderen Şeyda | Şubat 2, 2010, 09:04
  2. hehe canım çatırdayacak bişey yok ki, yazıda bahsettiğim üzere öyle aman aman pahalı değil, japonya’dan kat kat ucuz, türkiye ye dönmeden önce uğra işte bir fırsat yaratıp 🙂 bu kadar yakındasın, imkanın var yani. 😉

    Gönderen solakadam | Şubat 2, 2010, 18:51
  3. harika gezmişsin mete bayıldımmm..

    Gönderen Begüm | Şubat 3, 2010, 17:11
  4. teşekkür ederimm! bu kış bi değişiklik yapiim dedim 🙂 nasıl gidiyo bu arada iş hayatı fln? haberleşemedik epeydir. sunnyside da çalışmaya başladım, namiko seni sordu geçen, epeydir konuşamadık dedim 🙂

    Gönderen solakadam | Şubat 4, 2010, 01:21
  5. hacım çok güzel gezmişsin de kaça patladı ? 🙂

    Gönderen ercan kaya | Eylül 14, 2010, 04:27
  6. 1 ay oralarda kaldığım süre boyunca yaklaşık 1000-1200 lira civarı harcamışımdır 🙂

    Gönderen solakadam | Ekim 1, 2010, 10:19
  7. Bende 1 ay gezdım bana gore tayland tan daha zevklı daha naturel. tabı tercubelı olmak gerekıyor. heryerde kendı ışını kendın gormen gerekıyor. çunku komısyon alıyorlar

    Gönderen sinan | Ağustos 12, 2011, 07:18
  8. evet, mümkün mertebe uyanık olmak lazım 🙂

    Gönderen solakadam | Eylül 17, 2011, 05:16
  9. Selamlar,
    Yazınız çok güzel. Ben İstanbul’da işi gücü bırakıp tayland-kamboçya-vietnam üçgeninde yaşamayı planlıyorum. Daha önce Tayland’da bulundum. En azından 7-8 ay orda 3-4 ay istanbul’da gibi bir hayat düşünüyorum. Buna göre bir takım ticari projelerim de var. Siz ne dersiniz ? Yaşanır mı oralarda = Sevilir mi oralar ? Düşüncelerinizi kısa da olsa paylaşırsanız sevinirim.
    Sevgiler.

    Gönderen tolga | Kasım 4, 2011, 19:54
  10. Çok teşekkürler öncelikle. Zor bir soru sormuşsunuz ama. 🙂 Nasıl desem, güzel yerler, ben gerçekten çok çok sevdim, ama neticede tatil için gittim ve o mantıkta zamanımı geçirdim. Laylaylom güzeldi yani. 🙂 Çalışmak nasıl olur bilmiyorum ki. Ama ucuz memleketler, görülecek de çok şey var. Ama kişisel görüşüm denemeye değer olabileceği yönünde diyebilirim. Tabi ki yönlendirme yapacak tecrübeye sahip değilim malesef. 🙂

    Gönderen solakadam | Kasım 9, 2011, 16:48
  11. merhaba, 4 gün sonra Tayland ve Kamboçya’yı kapsayan bir tatile çıkıyorum.. toplam 15 günlük bir seyahat olacak ve notlarınızdan okuduğum kadarıyla bu süre yetmeyecek gezip görmeye. Yazınızın bir çıktısını da yanımda götüreceğim.. unuttuğum atladığım bir şey olmasın diye.. teşekkürler..

    Gönderen mine | Şubat 4, 2012, 09:01
  12. Umarım güzel bir tatil geçirmişsinizdir. Yazdıklarımın bir faydası olmuşsa ne mutlu bana 🙂

    Gönderen solakadam | Mart 26, 2012, 10:37
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